By Alessandro Berga  www.modediplomatique.com

The Italian Fall Winter season is a vision of quiet, flamboyant female-ness; lots of leather, blue in all its facets (cobalt to light and navy to aqua), oversized sometimes, accessorized with chunky shoes and, a new skirt length. Mixing up vintage silhouettes and creating something new.

ARMANI traces the spirals of your imaginary gates.

Courtesy of Armani

Courtesy of Armani

Courtesy of Armani

Courtesy of Armani

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Armani goes Garçonne, signs the fierce androgynous in you, featuring simple lines, while perfect cuts and combinations of materials transform it into something decidedly avant-garde. Black, its overarching colour, enhances the figure, emphasizing its shape with jewelled jackets, trousers and skirts-cum-bermuda shorts, as well as with long, hip-hugging skirts that end in a bias cut. Your boyish side blossoms in jackets and pants; adjusted for some, fluids for others. White details feed a snappy contrast to emphasize your strong silhouette made of shorts and long, oblique cut skirts with big buttons. Hints of white create luminosity and contrast, as do the golden fabrics paired with lacquered black shoes and accessories. Still, every woman in you is free to dress for her evening, to combine her garments: sequined pantsuits, embroidered tops and striking berets. Black onyx buckles are a common thread running through the jewellery, and make their mark on accessories, echoing the button motif that also runs through the collection.

VALENTINO converts the serious into the frivolous.

Courtesy of Valentino

Courtesy of Valentino

Courtesy of Valentino

Courtesy of Valentino

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With a sense of precision and a taste for conquest, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli use the savoir of the atelier, to invent dresses that rewrite feminine iconographies. Their Fall 2013 Winter 2014 interpretation is one Kunstkammer in which geometry is strictly a matter of proportions between elements. The collection reveals severe yet harmonious shapes and a flawless match of different fabrics and colors, to produce Valentino allure beyond compare. Precious lace or embroidered ivory bibs on leather, silk and tulle dresses make for statement pieces. Scalloped edges and bright color contrasts on sensuous tulle intarsia add a touch of playful elegance to the game of fashion seduction between trapezoid gowns and tulip dresses. Illuminating the face, white embroidered collars with micro glass beads or in cut-out leather are the details creating sensuous suggestions on severe silhouettes. All-over flower embroideries are a season must. Pieces such as black gowns, dresses, capes, coats and skirts make for a strong style, suggestive of oriental tapestry, an inspiration equally suited for sophisticated day or night looks. Embrace transparencies. Golden thread embroideries and a skillful mix of fabrics render these intriguing pieces, sensually attuned. The precious esprit de la Maison is impalpable, intoxicating.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI rolls fragments of urban Urbi et Orbi.

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

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Valli’s show was really refreshing. Black, cream and white dominate on almost every outfit, with flashes of red, pink, and gold. The total white looks opening the show (with their blend of snow and écru on oversized parka coats) were sublime. The classic suit got a new look with fiery boleros, astrakhan jackets with metallic adornments while bomber jackets were done in satin, all structured in perfect cuts and essential lines. Eveningwear with turban-pleated skirts in lamé, were in cool spirits, and flaming red, or intense black. Virtuoso, Valli chained easy ivory dresses worthy of the very romantic Précieuses. Although he abandoned the ceremonial to embrace a more casual look, I couldn’t miss some distinctive elements. The crystals, for example, gave a retro aspect to coats, jumpers and suits. Fur on each garment. It appeared on collars, on coat sleeves, on necklines and on belts. The must have was the “Valli Bag”, with its delicate strap. Giambattista Valli staged a season dedicated to young girls, famous or not, and made them grow up, thriving on the challenge of designing a passe-partout wardrobe for them.

FRANCESCA LIBERATORE designs your Hell.

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

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Protégée of Viktor & Rolf, Jean Paul Gaultier (the only assistante allowed to work with the Maestro on Madonna’s “Confession” tour) and Brioni, she is the startling young talent of Italian fashion. I got to enjoy a real Noir experience this fall. On the catwalk, she showed a woman of dark opulence, in particularly rich fabrics like furs and striped leathers. Long couture gowns with striking details in gold, lurex and jacquard which lashed a demonic threat combined with flames: thus the garments made of pieces put together paraded colors and fabrics, from very dark to lighter shades to a red that greeted the white light of daybreak.

GUCCI Dark in decadence.

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

Courtesy of IMAXtree

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The fall season is a jet-set drama of heroines drawn in noir moods and notes of passion. From a sweeping silk chiffon halter dress to a flirty blouse, alluring your waist has never been so stylish. The silhouette is sleek and clothes have rounded or egg-shaped épaulettes, necklines are deep, knee-length skirts are handled by strict slits. Pants are feminine. Jackets are structured and defined by strict coats in edgy cabans. The palette is dark with the occasional rust, powdery blue and green câpre. What makes the difference is the use of textures and materials: from python to the Kidassia fur to exotic brocades, feathers, studs and sequins to finish with pied-de-poule and Prince of Wales. Yet, the jaguar print has it all sensuality, style, intrigue. One pretty pattern, three fashionable ways to wear it: preppy, elegant and sensual, fall’s daring checks, proved it’s always chic to be square. To accent an off-the-shoulder turquoise dress or olive wool car coat with rich accessories, like a spotted tote or gilded buckle, for head-turning fashion at its most intriguing is to take a bold approach to the new season. The phenomenal women are swift in body-skimming dresses in rich tones of ruby, teal and copper and then, anchor them with show-stopping python boots in matching tones. They will walk in a decisive step toward incomparable style in balanced Beverly T-strap pumps, while the bags are structured with locking luggage, taken from the Gucci archives of the 1950s. And when stilettos are too high and flats too low, kitten heels hit the style sweet spot. Necklaces and bracelets have big colored stones. Now for those of you who have carried, like Sophia Loren, the Gucci Bamboo bags over the years shall be so happy to twang on modern sunglasses and trip on exquisitely. Because Gucci is going Confidential this fall. Still molded by hand (just as it was more than 65 years ago) the impeccably chic handbag handle continues to redefine curve appeal for this fall: from pop royalty to royal black and blue bloods.

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