Here’s what you may have missed from #LFW #MFW #PFW 

Incase you have a serious sense of FOMO, we have recapped some of our favourites from London, Milan, and Paris Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2019 fashion weeks.

 

MILAN FASHION WEEK

______________________________________

 

Gucci 

Under dazzling and blinding lights at the Milanese HQ, Sting’s “Gabriele’s Message” was sped up, amplifying the multi-sensory exhibit.

The lights flickered and reverberated endlessly  throughout the space thanks to mirrors as the chanting and masked entities marched alongside their reflections. Cyberspace references twirled as Alessandro Michele’s played with the thought of who we are versus who we pretend to be: a definite reflection of the world today. Pulling from diverse times, cultures, and stimuli, Michele continued his juxtaposition between rules and wildness, strengthening silhouettes in his mishmash of epochs. Lace and spiked dog collars revisited the 16th and 17th century, galactic metallics were paired with somber private school grey, embellished mini dresses were garnished with branded knee pads, and checked suits were paired with spiked details. A revamped version of Eduardo Costa’s gold ear sculpture photographed by renowned photographer Richard Avedon made a collective debut. As one of the biggest players in the digital era, Michele continued to add to his eclectic legacy without disappointing, in his frenzied blend of everything and then some.

 

Step into the Gucci World

 

______________________________________

Alberta Ferretti

With a delicate undertone from the 1980s, large rounded shoulders and trousers tucked into booties glided down the runway with a western general feel, at Alberta Ferretti. The soft and girly aesthetic was polished and soft as monochrome layers transitioned from all white to a silver lamé jumpsuit. Wild ruffles had onlookers scrambling for the perfect zoom-in. Dramatic silhouettes hypnotized the crowd from gowns to playing with sheerness, ruffles, and trousers in ultimately the ultra-feminine, sophisticated, and contemporary Ferretti woman.

 

Discover the full collection

 

______________________________________

The Attico

Welcome to the ultimate ’80s extravaganza. ‘It girls’ Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio have been on everyone’s fashion radar for the past little while, having recently converted Milan’s Garage Traversi into a serious blast from the past, in a flamboyant celebration of retro cars and mega-bright feathery numbers sprawled on the hoods. The key here is to think big: big cars, big and bright silhouettes. This girl is made to be seen. Multilayered metallic mini dress are paired with slouchy boots, metallic blue banana pants are topped with metallic leather jackets, cascading feather gloves, and over-the-top sequin feather combo gowns. A showstopper black mini dress with a gold frontal pilssé heart went viral over social media as all the fashion first class attended THE party to be at during MFW.

 

Discover The Attico

 

______________________________________

Fendi

The Fendi family employed Karl Lagerfeld in 1965 until February 19, 2019. His masterful character was evident in his last collection for the house, through the verve of the colourful raincoats and skirts to the lightness and cheekiness of fabrics, pointed collars, and monochrome silhouettes.  As the Maison remained forward-looking, just as the master himself would have wanted, the show wrapped with a clip of Karl sketching himself on his first day back in 1965, signed “Love Karl.”

 

Discover the full collection

 

______________________________________

Prada

Under the evident blanket of ‘fear’, Miuccia Prada rolled-out her F/W19 collection in somber hues and heavily tread combat-esque boots, with a significant minimalist feel. Infamous for reflecting current events and politics in her work, Miuccia Prada display military and combat uniforms, and even Frankenstien made a ghoulish yet comical appearance. With a serious X-Files / “Bad Romance” overtone (two soundtracks that were blended amongst others during the show), gigantic to colourful flowers lightened the mood as lace was delicately draped or peeked out from combat jackets, and knotting and layering added dynamism to Wednesday Addams. 

 

See what’s trending at PRADA

 

______________________________________

Versace

Digging into the past, Dontella Vesace leveraged safety pins at times, holding together patchwork while the most iconic songs from the grunge movement played overhead. Kurt Cobain’s “Smells like Teen Spirit” and Courtney Love’s “Celebrity Skin” brought us back to that early ’90s teenage angst steeped heavily in plaid. Emphasizing imperfection, Versace’s unravelling dresses, ripped knitwear, exposed lingerie, and patterns that seemingly don’t blend unified in perfect harmony. From tweeds to citrusy layers and perfect centre parted hair, the collection screamed rockstar from beginning to end, which reverberated globally as Instagram went wild.

 

Discover the entire show

 

______________________________________

Salvatore Ferragamo

Synonymous with utilizing innovative materials, Ferragamo presented artisanal values in refreshed silhouettes. Leather jumpsuits, capes, targeted inserts, and even an oversized bomber blended the past with the present with an evident streetwear inspired vibe. Such an iconic house with a prolific past could have been insignificant to a new crowd living in our digital world, however, not under the helm of new creative director Paul Andrew. With models ranging from Georgina Grenville to Kaia Gerber in tow, an exemplary fashion house is speaking the right language with its cultivated new classics.

Watch the show here

 

______________________________________

Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini

 Bella Hadid opened the show, highlighting the romantic colour palette of pink on sparkling crimson. No one turned out minis and showed leg this MFW like Lorenzo Serafini. Topped with overflowing sweaters tucked haphazardly, the hues trickled down to lace tops and semi-capped sleeve satin slip dress. From shiny jumpsuits to peek-a-boo camisoles under masculine cut suits, the collection plays with lace, silk, ruffles, and satin paired with barely-there sandals or pointed black ankle boots. The entire collection oozed wearability, an easily identifiable theme through all the Milanese shows. 

See the full show

 

______________________________________

Ermanno Scervino

Opening the show on a strong menswear note was contrasted by dainty wear slipped in here and there, as dashes of leopard print was a segue to a black leather pantsuit, a long cinched down coat, a blazer and wrap-cape hybrid; it was a definitely strong outwear collection. Shifting into candy-coloured Swarovski saturated knits with matching tights, the show concluded in Ermanno Scervino style with white lace and silk dresses, black leather with asymmetrical tulle detailing, and a blended lace sequin mini topped with dainty lace gloves.

Discover Ermanno Scervino 

 

 

PARIS FASHION WEEK

______________________________________

Isabel Marant

The perception of femininity garnished by nonchalant style is what every woman, regardless of personal taste, is drawn to at Isabel Marant. Slouchy boots perfectly peeking out from under an oversized yet precisely fitting beige raincoat opened for a sand-hued palette, which was followed by chunky knits and western waist-cinching belts. Thigh high boots like no other strolled the catwalk defining the perfect leg for cuffed shorts, leading into exaggerated shoulders, leather, and a dash of sparkle for good measure which certainly lead us to checking off the last box of everything needed for fall.

Check out all the looks

 

 

______________________________________

Saint Laurent

Arguably one of the most anticipated shows of the season, Anthony Vaccarello surely did not disappoint. Sculptural lines inspired by the eighties recall the sophisticated and liberated spirit of Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger, and Catherine Deneuve. The show opened with just the perfect amount of shoulder volume, demonstrating strength which was paired with plunging neckline sheerness tucked seamlessly into a satin cummerbund and male-cut trousers. The second to fifth looks played on variants of the coat, topping a black mini and pois nylons, to a patent leather jacket one-piece. From the white pant suit with contrasting black, broad waist sash to mini shots with embroiled jackets, fedoras, slouchy knees, and feathered ankle boots, the looks were increasingly infatuating. With knotting and bows, mono-sleeved minis, leather ruffle skirts, ruches, and lace bustiers, right down to Kaia Gerber’s exaggerated shoulder blazer dress, Vaccarello’s YSL exceeded expectations. When the lights cut and the show continued under a black light, neon numbers blazed against a mirrored backdrop. Florescent tiger prints and feathered belted mini dresses with contrasting belts coordinated perfectly with standout pumps, right down to gleaming green; the collection has Vaccarello leading the pack this FW19.

See the full show 

 

______________________________________

Balmain

Not long after Oliver Rousteings first couture just recently in Paris, it is quite visible that he has taken note from his high fashion experience. The collection breathed a refreshed Balmain woman dedicated to “the female trouble-makers,” dressed in spiky leather jackets, thick coal tights, and chain-linked hair pieces. There was a definite nod to denim in diversified volumes with clear sequinned jeans, origami floral details, sheers in all the right places, leathers, plastic transparencies, and feathers. The occasional lilac and powder blue pop against a monochrome palette was a highly desirable, dreamy, and perfect addition to the RTW collection.

Discover the FW19 Collection 

 

______________________________________

Off-White

From stripes to gigantic checkerboards that lay as the foundation for his most recent show, Virgil Abloh dappled with elegant silhouettes, which, of course, were garnished by the most coveted sportswear pieces. We saw cropped puffy jackets over a well-cut blazer, graffiti tracksuits with heels and matching mini totes, mustard knits directed angularly, as metallics, jump-suits, and sneakers made their move on the board. A collection still heavily based in singular looks, Abloh was drawing from his extensive resources of knowledge, creating yet again the ideal blend between ready-to-wear and sportswear. Model Karlie Kloss wrapped the show in a stunning cyber yellow dress with an immaculate frontal slit and daunting train, oversized accessory in tow. 

Check out the Off-White world

 

______________________________________

Balenciaga

Reverting to the past, Demna Gvasalia modernized brand codes for 109 looks. Sifting through cultural norms, Gvasalia’s fundamental tailoring opened the show as overcoats slowly transformed into heightened oval silhouettes, perhaps a recall from Cristobal’s ’60s rounded coats. Reflecting on Parisian life itself, the collection emulated how people actually wear their clothes in the city: wrap dresses and multiple shopping totes in hand and quilted cross-body rectangular bags slung casually across silhouettes. Diversified shapes are exactly to be expected from the non-conventional Balenciaga: orbicular necklines, varied volumes, and nose-skimming necklines. Pushing forward with his modernist approach, Demna Gvasalia’s collections always resonates so deeply with his audience. 

Discover the full collection

 

______________________________________

Valentino

“The people you love become ghosts inside of you, and like this you keep them alive”  was the backdrop phrase and overarching theme to the Valentino RTW FW19 show. Injecting romance and poetry back into our digitally dependant lives, Pier Paolo Piccoli’s collection seemed as dreamy as his couture. Piccoli teleported us into his dream world of flowing and fluttering chiffon in the most delightful colours where we awake in the epitome of modern elegance. Between the flowers, seamless layers, and vibrant palette, he guided us away from the ’80s theme, reverberating heavily through this season’s neighbouring collections. Featuring four contemporary poets – Greta Bellamacina, Mustafa The Poet, Yrsa Daley-Ward, and Robert Montgomery – he entrusted their beliefs on love in a small publication: Valentino ON LOVE . “Romanticism” at its best, this FW19 collection reveals something for every age and every woman communicating that sophistication at every age. “Love is the bond that connects all.”

 

Discover the full collection 

 

______________________________________

Givenchy

Under the clear roof of the Garden des Plantes, Clare Wright Keller, yet again, outdid herself. 

Strolling down the nearly mile-long catwalk, her emphasis on tailoring gave us three diverse shoulders and pantsuits with a cinched belt waist, while violet flowing trousers shifted to electric blues and perfectly speckled plissé gowns. Her notable couture touch trickled down into the collection with bubbled mono sleeves, sleek refined lines, and superb accessories that strut down the catwalk in a divine Garden of Eden likeness, symbolizing new beginnings. 

Discover the full collection

 

______________________________________

Miu Miu

With a multimedia display created by Sharna Osborne, the Miu Miu show explored the power of images through diversified mediums: giant prints, LED screens, old TVs, and short video clips. 

Producing a sort of sensory overload, the screens displayed a selection of the photographer’s personal materials as the house aimed at focusing on a diverse angle of femininity. The looks were all about Miu Miu’s girly-ness with an obvious dark undertone, perhaps a nod to teenage angst. Soft feminine patterns and cutesy mini shorts were paired with dark long Victorian capes giving the overall mood a somewhat gothic feel, anchored by black sheer knee high stockings and futuristic style combat boots. Camouflage, frayed shearling, culottes, and mini round specs were in the mix in an attempt to speak to the forward-thinking millennial clientele. 

Watch the full show

 

______________________________________

McQueen

There was an evident overtone of revolution and industrialism this FW19. The sense of freedom was apparent, contrasting willpower and romanticism. Sarah Burton revisited tailoring in an anarchic manner as classic suits were reassembled in an unorthodox manner. Jackets had re-attached dissimilar fabrics, tulle inserts jaggedly peeking out from dress ruffles cinched with doubled leather belts and knee high, laced combat boots. We saw soft and romantic patterns, from rippling tulle to leather dresses, white dreamy ruffled skirts topped with spiked leather jackets, right down to the showstopping gowns of shredded metal and glistening intricate metal jewels and chains. Burton most definitely pivoted Alexander McQueen into the limelight with her outstanding FW19 collection. 

Discover the FW19 Collection

 

 

LONDON FASHION WEEK

______________________________________

Burberry

As an Italian, Ricardo Tisci views UK culture from a diverse perspective, which ultimately reflects his most recent collection. After the re-branding teasers, Burberry’s logo was splashed everywhere, left to critics and newcomers to scorn or embrace. As a reflection of his observation and what London essentially stands for, is a blend of cultures, stereotypes, ages, classes, races, and the list goes on. Tisci’s work has a proximity of contrasts between streetwear vs. classicism, sportswear vs. tailoring, etc. Deconstructing a shearling coat, tracksuit bustier, casual dresses with crystal fringe, and heritage tartans in revamped modernized silhouettes, the collection screamed TODAY like no other. With incredible insight to reflect the breadth of clientele of Burberry currently and a strategic business move, Tisci executed wholly having capturing the streetwear meets fashion avant-garde vibe perfectly.

 

See all the looks  

 

______________________________________

Simone Rocha

Renowned for romanticism, this season Simone Rocha played peepshow with transparencies shifting femininity under a new light. Layered tulle with underlined brasier, jaw-dropping sequin dresses for the modern day princess, and shiny bustiers over classic prints. Friends like Chloë Sevigny walked in a white dreamy dress with selective transparencies confirming the easiness of wearing anything from the FW19 collection.

Discover the collection

 

______________________________________

Victoria Beckham

With the Beckham family in tow and youngest of the clan, Harper, twinning with like bob of American fashion icon Anna Wintour, Victoria Beckham completely revitalized the female workwear code. Swirling around the show were VB’s words, “She’s a lady but not ladylike. She’s proper but she’s not prim,” which was definitely the honey in all of our earl grey tea. Cherry red pairs with modern elongated sleeves topped over slim-fitting ankle cut skirts and skin tight peek-a-book leopard boots: a divine contrast. Or mix-and-match pant suits with camel trousers, with perfectly cut checked blazers broken by soft powder blue and Palermo yellow pumps. Ladylike tweed skirt-cape combo was de-dramatized by cobalt blue pointed boots topped with dainty bows. The prim-and-proper looks rolled out with an emphasized nice girl naughtiness that definitely resonated. 

Watch the show

 

______________________________________

Peter Pilotto

Soft and dreamy and reminiscent of a kind of distant memory, Peter Pilotto’s delicate everyday dresses, muted pastels, and flash of coloured tights was simultaneously playful and sensual. Feather detailing streamed down from shoulders to dainty accessories as florals morphed into suits. Metallic full-length plissé dresses were tantalizingly followed by a cerulean blue, and two sheer gowns in soft pastel and tangerine were defined by white and crimson lace.

Discover the entire collection

Comments