To Kill For:

Virgil abloh’s fall/winter 2020 men’s collection re-envisions the suit and traditional dress codes through impeccable tailoring, interesting silhouettes, and an interesting colour palette that ranges from neutral shades to a sky blue motif. The details are to kill for.

—By Luisa Tarantino

The Fall/Winter 2020 collection features an array of incredible looks, but it’s the details that really struck us. From ruffled detailing on impeccably tailored suits to exposed material architecture to textured ombre colouring, Abloh’s penchant for adding unique characteristics to his pieces makes this collection incredible.

The accessories — the glasses, the bags, the leather body braces — are curated to perfection, interpretations of the collection’s theme of reimagining workwear and dress codes. In designing this collection, Abloh made use of his societal observations, observing men on their commute to work. The details and accessories in the collection thus serve as a questioning of what can be done to adapt certain tools and aspects of workwear, from suspenders becoming conceptual body braces to vests that become conceptual hip-wraps. Business suits are reimagined through their silhouettes and detailing, such as through ruffled sleeves, waistcoats that become part of a high-waisted pant, or floral cutouts adorning the classic business shirt. Louis Vuitton’s skill in making beautiful bags plays a big role in the show; briefcases and backpacks are given the LV touch to add a bit of flair to our idea of business and workwear accessories— mirrored briefcases, textured bookbags with the iconic LV pattern, a multi-toned blue slingback shoulder bag.

louis vuitton

louis vuitton

Even more, one of the things we love the most is the sky blue motif. It’s striking, vibrant, and we might even say hopeful. Visually marvellous, the sky motif also contributes new connotations to the classic business suit, adding a touch of playfulness. With the show entitled ‘Heaven on Earth,’ these suits seem to exist in a dream-like, surrealist world where conventions are fragmented and upturned all while existing in the real world.

Mid-pandemic, we see this re-imagining of everyday business wear and Abloh’s Heaven on Earth theme as bringing about a new freshness to our upcoming Fall. Although no one anticipated the past few months’ past events, Abloh’s collection seems to have looked forward to a time in which our ways of working and our ways of dressing would be drastically changed. In a video posted on Louis Vuitton’s Instagram page when the collection hit the runway, Abloh said that “the collection is about being open-minded and free, even in the constructs of formal menswear.” This idea of being open-minded and free, and not just toward formal wear, is something we imagine will be a major theme for future fashion collections and ways of designing, especially after these past couple of months. As discourses around fashion and our work lives change, we look forward to more collections such as this one.

louis vuitton

You can see the whole collection here, or watch the runway below.

To read our other curated segments of DTK’s To Kill For, click here.

Written on: July 3, 2020