Rochas Homme Returns to
Rochas has returned to the runway. After opting for the presentation format these past few seasons, Menswear Creative Director Federico Curradi embarks on his first proper runway show for AW20.
—By Lauren Walker-Lee
“The shift made me focus with renewed precision on the identity of the Rochas man, who finally comes alive, today, moving into space. This man, for me, is a maker and a seeker: he creates beauty, expressing himself with colours or words, by just being himself.” – Federico Curradi
The medium is not really important, says the designer, but rather the mindset is. A maker creates his own world and inhabits it, and that is reflected in the way he thinks, acts, and ultimately dresses. While designing the collection, Curradi notes that a real man caught his attention and inspired him greatly, because he seemed to possess all the qualities he aims for, particularly in the way he dresses.
The man remains nameless, but he is an artist whom Curradi sees every day. His studio is very close, in the heart of Florence. This person draws, creates jewels, and sculpts but what’s really fascinating is that he brings his own inner demons alive in a wonderfully cathartic way. He is a creature of the night, and it’s not rare to see him in a dinner jacket, jewels, and a white shirt early in the morning, like he is getting back to work straight from whatever he was doing the night before, explains the designer of his muse.
“This decadent way of dressing sparked a lot of Parisian fantasies in my mind, as I kept thinking of ‘poets maudits’ and other casually elegant outcasts. What defines these men, in my vision, is the poignancy with which they move above and beyond rules. I admire their nonchalance, their forgetful way with mixing colours and items.”
This season Rochas turned these ideas into a precious yet easy wardrobe made of softly constructed pieces in rich, tactile wools for fluid silhouettes with a marked shoulder. Utilitarian and sophisticated, masculine and feminine mingle and merge, as broderie anglaise blooms on shirts, buttonless coats are tied at the waist with ribbons and tiny metal details, pins, necklaces and chains convey a new sense of decoration which carries on in the hats, which were developed with Nick Fouquet. The Rochas man is nocturnal and slightly decadent, but not dark. He shines, subtly, from the inside.
Check out some of the collection below and check out our other coverage from Fashion week here.