Haute Couture Fall/Winter 19/20
SCHIAPARELLI

A Story in three chapters: Chapter 1: Day

For this collection, I wanted to offer a complete image for the woman as she moves through her day and life, and from the realm of the practical into the realm of dreams. This first chapter offers a vision of compelling and authoritative daywear, one that mixes menswear-inspired tailoring with more fantastic elements often associated with evening wear: wool suits with beaded wool bibs, for example. These unlikely juxtapositions give the looks a sense of friction and, I hope, provoke ideas about how and why we wear what we do.

The other thing we concentrated on was the development of new fabrics and techniques, which continues a tradition begun by Mme. Schiaparelli. One of the innovations, which you’ll see throughout this collection, is particularly illustrated in the looks made in an overdyed silk faille. The faille is dyed by hand in small batches and then beaten to destroy the fabric’s natural character and texture, which changes the texture and toothiness of the material. In destroying the fabric’s natural grain, it transforms it into something unexpected and revelatory.

These first looks were inspired by interiors: the green velvet sofas in the GrandHotel Milano; a gray wool sofa against a burgundy wall. Each look is meant to be an exercise in tonality, a contrast of deep, rich colors, as well as an expression of what the modern uniform should be: something familiar made anew.Then, the palette changes to a wide range of nudes, partnered with saffron, navy, and black for a distinct take on neutrals. The focus is on the body and its transformations, but here I’ve played more with dimensions and ideas of the natural and the mutant: What happens when the body gets embellished?

I was particularly inspired by Jack Whitten’s unsettling, techno-primitive sculptures and Sarah Lucas’s stuffed stockings sculptures, which offer both a wink to and a rejection of the idea of conventional femininity. You can see an homage to Whitten in this chapter’s Deco-inspired embellishments, and another to Lucas in our re-interpretation of the stirrup pant, which is offered in three variations. Throughout, dimensions and tropes of “men’s” and “women’s” designs are upended and teased, especially in the case of the tailored jacket, which is cut for a woman and blooms with a froth of tulle.

 

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 1: Gathered-back jacket in navy fresco wool with a tulle back and trompe l’oeil necklace embroidery.
The stocking pant is in nude fresco wool with black satin and organza, and the balaclava is embroidered with crystals.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 2: Gathered-sleeve top in double organza; the bandeau is black suede. They’re paired with a nude pleated wool skirt.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 3: Gathered-back coat in navy wool twill with gold leaf leather trim, worn with a beaded knit bib.
The gold ribbon is a recreation of a vintage Schiaparelli belt from the Lesage archives. The stocking pant is done here in overdyed lace.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 4: Draped-back top in saffron overdyed silk faille with frayed edges. with 80,000 crystals to create the embroidered stocking pant.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 5: Navy cashmere coat with a flared sleeve and alligator-skin trim worn over a navy cashmere knit top.
Long trouser in coordinating navy silk satin.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 6: Corset-back burgundy pencil dress with silk tulle overlay and tonal lizard-skin details. The corset is closed not with lacing, but rather Velcro tabs.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 7: Trench in lichen-green mackintosh fabric with overdyed tonal silk faille sleeves and snakeskin details.
The coat is accompanied by a coordinating compact knit turtleneck sweater and a long wool trouser.


schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 8: Tank dress in yellow ostrich with jet bead embroidery, worn with matching gloves. The gathered belt is black lambskin. For this look, we embroidered each follicle of the ostrich with black bugle beads, replacing one ornamentation—feathers—with another, and thereby emphasizing the skin’s natural variations.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 9: Wrap skirt in black box calfskin with a beaded edge, paired with a black cashmere knit top and a python necklace rendered in absinthe-colored crystals. Here we’ve embroidered bugle beads onto the edge of the skin to highlight its natural contours.


Chapter 2: Night

Now the woman has moved into night. But her interpretation of night is both figuratively and literally dark, an unlikely marriage of Deco and twisted Surrealism; Brutalism and glamour. I wanted these looks to feel almost “anti-design.”

 

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 10: Released volume skirt in overdyed black silk faille with a jet-beaded yoke and a bandeau with crystal leopard embroidery. The balloon sleeve gloves are made in white satin and black lambskin.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 11: Jacket in winter-white wool suiting with a raw-edge black lizard-skin collar, lapel, and pocket, worn with a beaded knit bib. The trouser is white silk and cotton ottoman with embroidery.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 12: Jacket in black barathea wool with crystal fringe fingernail embroidery, worn atop a crystal embroidered crinoline dress.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 13: Draped-back dress in layered black silk gazar and organza worn atop a black silk velvet bodysuit with a trompe l’oeil necklace and a pink crystal brain headdress.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 14: Bias collar jacket in navy barathea wool with jet bead fringe. Beneath is a stirrup pant in midnight navy barathea wool with a black satin corset. The collar and lapel—which are worn as a scarf—are crystal embroidery on cashmere.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 15: Bias dress in black satin with a sheer knit crystal loop sleeves; the balaclava is black python skin.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 16: Evening dress in black silk velvet with a hand-painted trompe l’oeil gold ribbon belt. The draped hood is made from nude-colored suede.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 17: Dress in iridescent moonrock embroidery with an overdyed absinthe-colored silk satin veil and a coordinating moonrock hat.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 18: Evening dress in black Velcro with modular fringed floral embroidery and a black iris hat.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 19: Corset in floral bugle bead embroidery and stirrup pants in printed silk faille. The gloves are gathered overdyed silk faille with bonded floral embroidery.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 20: The “State of Undress” skirt in floral-printed silk faille with inverse-printed details, paired with a crystal knit sportsbra.

Chapter 3: Dreamtime

 

After day, after night, a third time of our life begins. Dreamtime is not day, not night; not practical, not romantic; not logical, not replicable. It is where we go when our mind wanders, when we forget the rules of how we’re supposed to live, think, create, and
see. In this time, we surrender to the intuitive, to the emotional.

This chapter is a tribute to the sheer fantasy—of expression, of imagination—of fashion, and to the heights of joyfulness and exuberance it can reach. Artistically, it’s a time in which self-consciousness and self-awareness fall away, in which I can create simply for the pleasure of creating. But the clothes also speak to the pure, unselfconscious pleasure of wearing fashion, of dress-up, of adornment. The result—a delirious marriage of color and jewels—is also an homage to the special intimacy that exists between designer and wearer, and how together, they can both share in the same unlikely dream.

 

 

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 21: Hooded dress in bias cut navy silk jersey with trompe l’oeil crystal necklace worn with a bustier in shadowed silver bead embroidery.

schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 22: Tiered silk jersey dress with black alligator bodice.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 23 : Sculpted tank dress in knit nylon with iridescent dégradé, and plastic tubing and silk yarn embroidery. The draped hood is embellished in crystal sunset embroidery.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 24: Grand flou skirt in saffron overdyed silk faille with mother-of-pearl embroidered “swimsuit” bodice.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 25: Released volume skirt in red overdyed silk faille. On top, ladybug bandeau embroidered from salon-grade red acrylics.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 26: Bias-sleeve dress in yellow double organza with feather trim (each sleeve demands 20 yards of fabric). Silk satin skirt with crystal grid embroidery; the headband is made of yellow lizard-skin.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 27: Gathered volume dress with moiré strip center seam in blue and turquoise overdyed silk faille with a crystal embroidered bustier. Red degrade crystal fringe headpiece.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 28: Gathered volume dress with rainbow moiré stripe in overdyed silk faille and satin with Hawaiian sunset embroidered cups.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 29: Grand flou skirt in pink overdyed silk faille with crystal and mirror-embroidered sports bra.
schipiarelli fall winter 2019 2020

Look 30: Grand flou bustier dress with “underwater” draped overdyed white silk faille.

Daniel Roseberry
July 1, 2019
Paris

 

Written on: August 19, 2019